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“Malawi is perhaps
Africa’s most beautiful country.”
- Explore Worldwide
“Lake Malawi is the dominant feature of the country. The
lake is one of the world’s living treasures.”
- Union Castle Travel
Malawi is one of Africa’s smaller countries, a little over 45,000 square
miles, of which about 20 per cent is occupied by Lake Malawi – Africa’s
third biggest lake. Much of the country lies within the great Rift Valley
of eastern Africa, with Tanzania to the north, Zambia to the west and
Mozambique to the east and south. Malawi’s northern boundary comes within
nine degrees of the equator. The country stretches southwards to 17°S.
The
Rift Valley floor at the lakeshore is almost at sea level but the
bordering plateau rises to between 1600ft and 5000ft. The highest peaks in
Malawi touch 10,000ft while the Lower Shire Valley in the south is at a
meagre 500 ft. These great contrasts help to make the landscape of Malawi
one the most varied in all Africa. The scenery, including its cloak of
vegetation, presents an ever-changing vista.
Such
is the great size of Lake Malawi and the narrowness of the Rift Valley,
that there is little space for lakeshore plains. In north Malawi, between
Nkhata Bay and Livingstonia, the Ruarwe Scarp marks the very edge of the
Rift Valley, plunging over 5000ft from the Viphya Highlands straight into
the lake. Further south, in central Malawi, there are plains but rarely do
these extend more than 15 miles from the shoreline. Here and there are
floodplains, often farmed but occasionally flooded in the rainy season.
Shallow depressions.
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Lake itself is a great inland sea, some 360 miles north to south and
up to 50 miles wide. Much of the time this tideless, freshwater lake
gently laps the golden beaches which surround it. But on rare
occasions it can show its anger in a fierce storm. Its fish-rich
waters are home to the mbuna, colourful tropical fish in
greater abundance here than anywhere else in the world. |
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To
the south, Lake Malawi drains into the River Shire which flows over 300
miles along the Rift Valley floor. On its way to join the Zambezi, the
Shire tumbles over rapids and falls as well as flowing quietly across
broad plains.
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Away from the Lake and the Shire Lowlands,
much of Malawi is part of the Central Africa Plateau. This gently
undulating land, where not farmed, has a natural vegetation of
deciduous .
Rising to even greater heights are
Malawi’s true mountains: the whaleback plateau of Nyika and the
mountainous Viphya in the north, the Dowa Highlands in the centre and,
in the south, the two great massifs of Zomba and, highest of all,
Mulanje, Central Africa’s grandest peak reaching over 10,000ft. |
THE PEOPLE
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With a population of approximately 12 million, Malawi is one of the
more densely peopled countries of this part of Africa. Most of the
population is rural (85 %), living largely in fascinating traditional
villages. The largest town
s the conurbation Blantyre-Limbe (the commercial “capital”) in the
south followed by the capital city of Lilongwe in the central region.
Mzuzu is the only large town in the north. Zomba, once the capital,
has, until recently, been the seat of the parliament. |
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NATIONAL PARKS & RESERVES
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is blessed with no less than nine national parks and wildlife
reserves. In the north are the unique Nyika Plateau and the Vwasa
Reserve. These complement each other, one a highland, the other a
lowland marsh area. The central region has two vast game areas;
Kasungu National Park in the west and Nkhotakota Reserve in the east,
near the Lake. To the south, the best known national park is Liwonde,
along the River Shire, but there are also three game areas further
south in the Shire Lowlands: Lengwe National Park and the wildlife
reserves of Majete and Mwabvi. Near the southern end of Lake Malawi is
the world’s first freshwater national park at Cape Maclear.
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The
big five (lion, leopard, buffalo, elephant and rhino) can be seen
in Malawi as well as a splendid range of antelope and other smaller cats
such as caracel and serval. Hippos are to be found in large numbers, so
much so that they are almost symbolic of Malawi’s prolific wildlife.
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The variety of fish, some 500 species, to be seen in the Lake Malawi
National Park is unequalled anywhere else in the world. Malawi’s
birdlife is renowned. Best known is the fish eagle to be seen at the
Lake and along the River Shire but, as with the Lake’s fish, the range
of species is breathtaking.
A safari in Malawi is sure to be a memorable experience; plenty of
game but none of those convoys of 4x4 vehicles characteristic of some
other African game parks. Perhaps the best way to see the game and
experience the total environment is to take a walking or horse riding
safari, both well catered for in Malawi. |
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In addition to the game parks and reserves, Malawi has a number of
forest reserves and uplands where one can commune with nature. Some
may require fairly strenuous climbs, as on Mount Mulanje, but many
more provide simple walks in surroundings of incredible natural
beauty.
It is this beauty which visitors to Malawi retain as their outstanding
memories of the country. Whether it be the vast Lake Malawi or the
quiet cedar forest of Zomba, there is always something to delight the
eye. Many of the uplands have viewing points from which to see across
countless miles of varied and magnificent landscapes. |
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THE CLIMATE
Malawi’s tropical climate is moderated across much of the country by
altitude. Two seasons can be recognised; the dry season lasts from April
through to November while the wet season lasts some four months, December
to March. Squeezed in between these two seasons is a hot and rather humid
period which generally characterises November and early December. Over the
last decade or so, the wet season has often been delayed. Rains which used
to start in early December now, quite regularly, don’t occur until the New
Year.
Even
in the so-called wet season, the rains are usually short-lived storms, as
is typical of the tropics, and at no time does the climate seriously
inhibit the traveller.
Much
of the country is at an altitude which keeps potentially high temperatures
down to very acceptable levels. Only in the lower Shire valley can
temperatures become unpleasantly high, and then only in the summer
months.
Although the period May to October is often described as the ideal time to
travel in Malawi, the rainy season is attractive for the displays of
orchids on Nyika plateau, for birdwatching in some of the Reserves and for
seeing Malawi’s vegetation at its most lush. The main drawback of a visit
in the wet season is in driving the dirt roads including those within the
game parks. It also has to be borne in mind that, as everywhere, game
viewing is best towards the end of the dry season.
Temperatures vary from below freezing (at night on the high plateaux in
winter – July) to 38°C/100°F (in the Lower Shire Valley in summer
–December). To generalise is difficult but through much of the year, and
in regions visited by travellers, temperatures during the day are usually
in the mid-20sC/mid-70sF. In the short hot season, November-December,
maximum temperatures may rise to the lower 30sC/upper 80sF. Lake Malawi’s
surface temperatures vary from about 24°C/75°F to 28°C/82°F.
Malawi Itineraries
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Malawi has a convenient geographical split
which allows for a ‘north Malawi’ itinerary and a ‘south Malawi’
itinerary. Each offers a combination of landscape, wildlife and lake
and can be covered in 7 days; though 10 days would not be excessive.
Whole-country itineraries are also easily put together, either
combining selected highlights of both north and south (possible in 10
days); or covering the majority of what both areas have to offer (14
days). Fortunately, distances are never that great, and with Malawi’s
constantly changing scenery, the journeys are part of the attraction.
It’s also now much easier to arrange air charter between the main
places of interest - and at costs which are comparable to those for
ground transfers. |
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North Malawi
The standard combination is Nyika National
Park, Vwaza Marsh Wildlife Reserve and the Lakeshore & Islands. In
addition, the Viphya Plateau provides an extra highland destination:
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Nyika National
Park: unique
scenic beauty of the rolling plateau; plus wildlife safaris including on
horseback. Other activities include mountain biking, trekking and
fishing.
Upmarket and mid-market accommodation.
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Vwaza Marsh
Wildlife Reserve:
complementary lowland wildlife area. Game viewing by 4x4 and on foot.
‘Rustic’ upmarket and mid-market accommodation.
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Lakeshore &
Islands:
plenty of lake-based activities, or simply relaxing on a beautiful
beach. A choice of accommodation is provided by Chintheche Inn or Makuzi
Beach Lodge at Chintheche, or Kaya Mawa on Likoma Island. Each has its
own individual character and so a combination of two lake lodges is
attractive.
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Viphya Highlands:
a scenic forested plateau. Good mid-market accommodation with an
emphasis on using the forest and escarpment for adventure activities -
also suitable for a relaxed forest escape.
South Malawi
For the south, it’s easiest to begin in
Blantyre and end in Lilongwe (air transfers between Lilongwe & Blantyre
are regular and inexpensive). This route begins with some of Malawi’s most
impressive scenery at Thyolo/Mulanje/Zomba, followed by safaris at Liwonde
National Park, and ends at the Lakeshore.
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Thyolo & Mulanje: the
Satemwa Tea Estates at Thyolo are beautiful, with stunning views across
to Mulanje and the Lower Shire Valley. There’s also the added attraction
of staying on a working tea estate in charming colonial managers’
bungalows. For climbers/trekkers, Mount Mulanje is a must, but
accommodation is basic and trips need to be arranged through a local
ground handler.
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Zomba Plateau: provides
fabulous views and forest activities including walking, trekking and
mountain biking. Upmarket and mid-market accommodation.
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Liwonde National Park: this
is Malawi’s best park for game, with safaris on offer by boat, 4x4 or on
foot. Upmarket and mid market accommodation beside the River Shire.
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Lakeshore: on the southern/Mangochi
Lakeshore lie Club Makokola and Sunbird Nkopola Lodge. At Cape Maclear/Lake
Malawi National Park, there’s a choice of Kayak Africa’s island camps or
Danforth Yachting’s guest house & catamaran. Slightly further north at
Senga Bay is the choice of the traditional colonial Le Méridien
Livingstonia Beach Hotel or the Safari Beach Lodge, set in a forest
reserve and with some unique wildlife viewing opportunities.
Visit the cultural island of Likomo
Each of Malawi’s regions, and the country as a
whole, can offer itineraries at upmarket and mid-market levels. They can
be relaxed, or packed with a variety of activities. There are also plenty
of specialist niche activities/tours which can be catered for, including:
cycling; diving; eco-tourism; trekking; birdwatching; weddings &
honeymoons; and many more.
Clearly, a 14 day stay in Malawi can provide plenty of
variety and interest. It’s also now quite straightforward to combine
sections of Malawi with its neighbours. Malawi+Zambia
is a long-standing combination, particularly utilising Lilongwe’s
proximity to South Luangwa and Malawi+Tanzania
are possible.
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